Morning Ritual: Arran at first light
The Isle of Arran, situated off the west coast of Scotland, is adorned with numerous stone circles and standing stones dating back to the Neolithic period and the early Bronze Age. The finest and most evocative collection is situated on Machrie Moor, on the island’s western flank.
On Machrie Moor, a complex assemblage of stone circles, cairns, and hut circles constitutes one of Scotland’s most intriguing, remarkable, and awe-inspiring archaeological sites. The landscape presents a serene, timeless quality: windswept heather, boggy patches shimmering with morning dew, and an expansive moorland that appears to extend infinitely. The photographic potential is exceptional, offering an array of textures, light, and historical layers in every composition.
Although the stone circles date from approximately 1800 to 1600 BC, during the Bronze Age, substantial evidence suggests that human activity in this area dates back much further. Archaeologists now believe that human occupation of this region has persisted for up to 8,000 years. Presently, the terrain is soft underfoot, covered with moss and heather; yet we must remember that the stones were erected during a period of drier climatic conditions, when the land was more suitable for cultivation and walking without risk of sinking into bogs.
I first learned of Machrie Moor through a friend who had wandered its pathways; his description of the stones remained vivid in my memory. Motivated, I began my own research and discovered images online, each presenting the site from a different perspective, yet none capturing the serene majesty I envisioned.
I decided to visit myself. It was the month of September. I took the ferry and arrived at Arran within fifty-five minutes. Machrie Moor is situated on the western side of the island, whereas Brodick, the ferry terminal, is located on the eastern side; the drive takes approximately twenty-five minutes. I parked and began the walk across rolling fields and boggy tracks, accompanied by the calls of curlews and the occasional rustle of red deer. The walk lasted around fifty minutes and provided a solitary immersion that makes photography not only a craft but a meditative act.
On arrival, I found the ruins of an abandoned farmstead, an informative sign, and a series of stone circles. One circle stood out: three upright red sandstone pillars, the tallest of which exceeded seventeen feet in height. I sat on a smaller stone and let my gaze wander, imagining life eight thousand years ago: the faint smoke of hearth fires, the low murmur of human voices, the rhythms of a world untouched by modernity. The moor was empty; the wind whispered through the stones, and I felt the chill of solitude settle over me.
From the outset, I knew a simple photograph would not suffice. My aim was to encapsulate the essence of the place, to evoke its presence across millennia; I envisioned a new dawn. The image required a sunrise. Through meticulous calculations, I determined that June would provide the perfect alignment. Sunrise in June occurs shortly after 4:00 AM, meaning you should begin the walk before 3:00 AM. The early hour was a small price to pay. The following June, the plan came to life: the first rays of sunlight touched the stones, the sky blushed with golden colour, and the photograph emerged exactly as I had imagined.
Getting there
Consult the maps before setting out. Approaching from the north along the west coast, pass Machrie Golf Course and, approximately one hundred meters beyond Machrie Water, a small sign indicates the stones. A layby on the right accommodates two to three cars: park carefully and avoid blocking the farmer’s gate. Cross the road, climb the stile beside the gate, and follow the grassy path straight ahead. At the next gate and stile, continue along the well-trodden path until reaching the ruins of Moss Farm. From this point, the stones and adjacent ruins are impossible to miss.
Arran is a compact island of remarkable beauty, frequently described as Scotland in miniature. An extended weekend visit can be creatively fulfilling, with locations that offer dramatic light for both sunrise and sunset. Machrie Beach, Blackwaterfoot, Corrie, Shiskine, and King’s Cave on the west coast, alongside Lochranza and Glen Rosa in the north and east, provide endless opportunities for compelling compositions. The island rewards patience and curiosity: the interplay of light on water, the mists and mountains, and the solitary presence of wildlife enhance every frame. Visit the island, explore its landscapes; I wish you good light.
